Argentinos Juniors 1 River Plate 2

This was the worst I’ve seen Argentinos Juniors play this season. Their passing, usually so precise, was all over the place, more often than not at the feet of their opponents. River, who have had a terrible season so far, played with spirit and came away with a victory that could turn their campaign around. Their goals came from Diego Buonanotte in the first half and Mauro Rosales in the second. Argentinos pulled one back when Néstor Ortigoza slotted home a penalty right at the end – but it was too little, too late and the large River contingent celebrated late into the night.

River Plate is in the midst of an election campaign for a new president, with all the wild promises, sordid accusations and macho threats that make up an intrinsic part of any Latin American election. But fundamentally, this campaign is about how this once mighty club, still with a huge fan base and the best stadium in Argentina, has become mediocre, bordering on crap.

If I wanted to stretch a point, and I do, I would argue that River Plate could be a metaphor for Argentina – once great, bursting with promise but now among the also-rans.

At the end of the nineteenth and beginning of the twentieth century, millions of Europeans flocked here, tempted by the wide-open spaces, modern, bustling cities and the promise of good things to come. The British brought the railways and football. Thanks lads!

French-style architecture lined wide boulevards. Italians, Spaniards, Russians, Croats and Germans discarded their lederhosen, furry hats, and castanets to forge a new Argentine identity to the beat of the tango and the smell of steaks sizzling on the barbeque.

Then, somewhere along the way, like a River Plate game-plan, it all went horribly wrong. The first military coup was in 1930 at the height of the world economic crisis – the original pre-internet, black and white crisis when, however poor and downtrodden the men were, they still wore a hat.

The military stepped in again in 1943. Three years later Juan Domingo Perón, an admirer of Mussolini and himself admired by the masses, won elections. He softened his hard-man image by placing a glamorous wife, Evita, at his side. She stood on the balcony of the presidential palace, entertaining the crowds by singing Andrew Lloyd Webber songs.

Juan Domingo and Evita

Juan Domingo and Evita

Today’s game didn’t kick off until well after 9pm and I rolled home in the early hours of the day after the night before. So I may be mixing things a little here. But the truth is that in the late 1940s and early 1950s there really was no need to cry for Argentina.

They didn’t join the Second World War until the Allies were 5-2 up and deep into injury time. So without a bead of sweat on its brow, Argentina was well placed to sell its abundant wheat and meat to a hungry, war-weary world. Perón was convinced that World War Three between the United States and the Soviet Union was imminent and that Argentina would emerge from the debris as a new superpower. He opened his doors to fleeing Nazis. Then in 1952, Evita died a premature death. If only those tunes had died with her!

Perón lost his way and in 1955 was turfed out. He left a legacy, some would say, of a confident, well organised workforce. Others would argue that the union movement was, and still is, riddled with corruption and Perón created more divisions than he healed.

Civilian governments took office, only to be thrown out by the military – in 1962, 1966 and then the murderous junta in 1976.

The Argentine economy has enjoyed a few blips of success. But they’ve usually been followed by spectacular crashes. There are many theories, usually involving mention of corruption and mis-management. The fact that the country is on its fifty-fifth economy minister in almost as many years can’t help. The fifty-second had to go when she was found to be hiding large sums of cash in the toilet cistern in her office.

Hyper-inflation in 1989 saw prices rise almost by the hour. Diners paid for their meals before eating in case the restaurant put the prices up before the coffee arrived. The provinces printed their own money.

I was working in Buenos Aires at the time and the pesos paid to me on the first of the month were worthless by the tenth. We had to negotiate a mid-month bonus to see us through to the end.

Throughout the nineteen-nineties, Argentina was governed by Carlos Menem, the president with the largest side-burns in modern world history. He sold the trains, telephones, water industry and pretty much anything else he could lay his hands on to foreign investors. A common topic of dinner-table conversation nowadays is whether the governments he headed were more corrupt than the husband and wife Kirchner team running the country at the moment.

Carlos Menem

Carlos Menem

At the end of 2001 Argentina defaulted on the biggest international debt in history – something around $95billion, give or take a peso or two. Transit vans full of undeclared and ill-gotten cash sped to the border with Uruguay to be stashed in foreign accounts. The banks pulled down their shutters and savers were denied access to their own deposits. They took to the streets in protest, bashing pots and pans. The then president, Fernando de la Rúa, fled the presidential palace in a helicopter.

Businesses collapsed. Millions fell below the poverty line. One Buenos Aires shanty town is reported to have erected a banner reading ‘Welcome to the Middle-Classes.’

Things have picked up a bit since then on the back of massive soya exports and a booming tourism industry. I like to think I’ve played my part by investing heavily in Argentine wine, although my only return so far has been in liquid assets.

Argentina still has the best education system in South America. But it continues to lose its best and brightest to well-paid jobs in Europe and North America, where there’s also the added attraction of better security and less corruption and bureaucracy.

The sad irony of course is that these emigrants have gone back to the lands their grandparents and great-grandparents fled a century or so ago in search of a better life in Argentina.

Argentina, like River Plate, still has plenty to offer. But I can’t help feeling that with all the talent they’ve had and with all the money that’s flowed in their direction from the sale of top quality players to Europe, the club should be on a par with AC Milan, Manchester United and Real Madrid. What we’ve got is Leeds United with a diagonal red stripe across the chest.

26/10
2009

Tigre 1 Argentinos Juniors 1

A rather disappointing draw for Argentinos Juniors against the bottom team, but they’re still up there with the title contenders. However, all eyes today were on the big local derby, the Superclásico between Buenos Aires rivals River Plate and Boca Juniors, which also ended 1-1. This one always steals the limelight. This is not just any derby. This is United v City, Red v Blue, Rangers v Celtic, Barça v Madrid, rich against poor, all rolled into one.

Sunset over Tigre.

Sunset over Tigre.

The media starts talking about this one weeks in advance. This is one important game. Or at least it used to be. Boca are languishing in mid-table which, by their standards is not good enough. River’s feathers are even more bedraggled. They won their last title in early 2008 then the following season finished in last place. They’ve never really recovered.

There are many reasons for this decline. But the main one is that both clubs simply lose their best players much earlier than they used to – or they never get their hands on them in the first place. In the old days, if a smaller club did well – maybe had the audacity to win a piece of silverware or two – Boca and River would wade in with sacks of cash and buy up the cream. The status quo would be restored.

But now the big European clubs are practically detecting Argentina’s footballing talent in the womb. And they’re descending on the humble homes of the future Messis and Tevezes with offers of gold, frankincense, myrrh, penthouse apartments and more. Who can resist?

But they – and I’m not really sure who ‘they’ are or how they could possibly know with any certainty – say that seventy-three percent of the Argentine population still supports either Boca or River.

Over the years the big two have won more than their fair share of silverware. Between them, they’ve picked up fifty-six championship titles – 33 for River and 23 for Boca. So that makes River the better team, obviously. But hold on a minute! Boca have won more international trophies, including six Libertadores Cups, than River. So that makes them top dog.  Surely!!?

It all began in the flat cap and baggy shorts days when both Boca and River were neighbours, and fairly friendly neighbours at that, in the working class dock area of La Boca. River won the first clash 2-1 in 1913. Then River had the audacity to move house and in 1923 settled in the much posher Núñez neighbourhood in the north of Buenos Aires. It’s a mere 7km but a whole other world away. They’ve now played each other one-hundred and eighty-five times in proper competitions, with Boca having the slight edge.

These days La Boca is, in parts, a picturesque touristy area. But the Riachuelo river that runs alongside it stinks, a pungent souvenir of the neighbourhood’s industrial past. The fans are known as Los Bosteros, politely translated as The Shovellers of Pig Excrement. The site of the club’s Bombonera stadium was once a factory which used pig manure in the manufacture of bricks.

La Boca’s corrugated-iron houses were painted different colours, from whatever was left in the tins after coating the ships that stopped there. A necessity then, quaint now. The immigrants, mostly Italian, were crammed into narrow ramshackle homes, tighter than an Inter Milan defence.

Today’s Boca shirt bears testimony to their roots with the word Xeneizes – Genoan dialect for Genoese – on the back. The story goes that the club administrators, trying to decide which colours to adopt, said they’d pick the flag of the next ship to dock. It was Swedish and blue and yellow it became.

The Núñez neighbourhood, which is dominated by River’s stadium, doesn’t smell, unless your nose is attuned to the aroma of money. The residents of Núñez and the barrios to the north are rolling in it, hence the club’s nickname, Los Millonarios or The Millionaires. They’re also known as Las Gallinas or the chickens, after bottling it in a couple of key games way back when.

Boca 'til you Die...and Beyond!

Boca 'til you Die...and Beyond!

So this rivalry is about rich versus poor and middle and upper class versus working class. In Argentina the team you support plays a big part in defining who you are. Most fans support their neighbourhood team – that would be Argentinos Juniors if you live in or have some connection with La Paternal. Vélez Sarsfield if you’re from Liniers. The city of Rosario is split down the middle between Newell’s Old Boys and Rosario Central and La Plata between Estudiantes and Gimnasia. But that means that the vast majority of Argentines simply don’t have a first or second division team in their neighbourhood. And so they’ll pick either Boca or River, depending on their political inclination or their family allegiance.

All the women in my wife’s family support Boca. That’s never been a problem for me since I don’t think they’ve ever met West Ham. And I can say with some certainty that if they ever did, the Hammers would teach them a footballing lesson or two!. But my sister-in-law has foolishly married a River Plate fan. Their battleground is in the bringing-up of their two sons. The oldest has sided with his dad, all white with a red diagonal stripe down the middle. The youngest is still undecided but the trauma is such that I suspect he may opt for a life in ballet.

The bosteros can even remain fans after they’re dead. There’s a nifty line in yellow and blue coffins, with a very tasteful yellow and blue silk lining and the club crest on the lid. There’s also an urn version for those more inclined towards cremation. And there’s a Boca Juniors cemetery south of Buenos Aires, decorated with yellow and blue flowers.

Having spent a lifetime in conflict with River fans, imagine the ignominy of having to spend eternity lying side-by-side with one of them!

All of this attention focussed on the big two, of course causes a certain amount of resentment among fans of the smaller clubs. So a little dash of gloating I think is in order as Argentinos Juniors look down the table from our lofty championship-contending place on Boca and River in the lower echelons. Can you hear us down there?

Argentinos Juniors 2  Racing Club 0

With the national team now safely qualified for the World Cup and a two-nil win for Argentinos Juniors on a delightful Southern Hemisphere spring evening, all would seem well in the world of Argentine football. But all is not well – far from it.

The topic of conversation on the terraces was still, three days after the event, Diego Maradona’s diatribe against the press after his team’s 1-0 victory against Uruguay. He must have known. He was at this match, keeping an uncharacteristically low profile.

Reasons to be Cheerful?

Reasons to be Cheerful?

Don’t get me wrong. Most Argentines are mightily relieved that their boys, after a disjointed qualifying campaign, will be going to South Africa next year.  The tension during that final qualifying game against Uruguay was almost tangible. Hospitals said they had eighty percent less patients coming in than usual, police in the centre of Buenos Aires reported almost no crime and cinemas either pushed their films to a later slot or shut up shop altogether.

But there was a slow realisation that the face of the nation, the man who will be speaking on their behalf in South Africa thinks there is nothing wrong with urging, in public, his detractors to suck on his private parts – not just once, but several times.

That Diego should lose control is neither new nor surprising. He’s fired a gun at journalists in the past. What many find hard to stomach is that the football authorities in Argentina should defend his behaviour.

What the controversy is doing is shifting attention from the fact that Maradona, working with some of the best players in the world, has produced a team that would struggle to hold its own in the Argentine third division.

A journalist friend of mine was at the final team training session before the Uruguay match. He said that Maradona stood in the middle of the pitch with a whistle in his mouth looking like a bored dad at a Sunday morning park kick-around with his kids. Only this wasn’t the morning since Diego doesn’t get up before midday and all his training sessions start well after lunch.

There was no planning, no talk of tactics, just comments like: “Nice pass, Messi,” and “Run Heinze!”

“Hey you! What’s your name? Good shot. I’ll play you on Wednesday, instead of Tevez. Be in Uruguay by 6pm. Bring a dark blue away shirt and a spare towel and tell your mum you’ll be back by Thursday.”

That’s how, I at least, imagine Mario Bolatti got in the team. Few outside of Argentine football and plenty in it had ever heard of the Huracan attacker before Maradona brought him on as a substitute on Wednesday night. While some of the most expensive talent playing in Europe sat on the bench trying to decide which car they were going to buy next week, Diego brought on the boy who must earn less than Lionel Messi spends on designer bootlaces.

There was a national shaking of heads and a collective moan of exasperation. What on earth was Maradona playing at? But Bolatti, as we now know, responded by poking in a winning goal worth more to Argentina than a Christmas hamper full of Messis, Tevezes and Agueros.

Wouldn't have happened in my day

Wouldn't have happened in my day

OK, with results elsewhere, we also now know that Argentina didn’t even have to win this one. But what the result did do was prove that Diego Maradona was right and everyone else was wrong, at least in his eyes. And that appears to be his main motivation. Not impressing the world and Argentines with the beauty of his team’s football – the kind of football he used to play. Oh no! His main motivation seems to be proving his detractors and doubters wrong and then rubbing their noses in the slimiest, foulest substance he can find.

Diego’s diatribes also go a fair way to distracting attention from the poor state of Argentine football in general and the man who’s presided over the national game from the late seventies, the head of the Argentine football association (AFA) and number two at FIFA, Julio Grondona. It was Mr Grondona who chose Diego, a man with little managerial experience and a suspect temperament, for the job. However, with friends in high places and in the media, criticism of the AFA president is as rare as a West Ham victory. He simply said his manager’s behaviour was justified given the pressure he’d been under.

Argentina continues to produce some of the best players in the world. More than one thousand play as professionals in leagues around the world, from England, Spain and Italy to Mexico, Thailand and Malta. Yet the quality of the domestic league is still pretty decent. This game between Argentinos Juniors and Racing produced some football as sublime as any I’ve seen anywhere, especially from the home team. Two first half goals did the business for Argentinos Juniors, the first from Andres Scotti with his hand – very apt in the Diego Maradona stadium where the stocky little idol began his professional career.

Yet something is rotten in Argentine football. Little of the money generated by the exports appears to get ploughed back into the national game. Many clubs are in debt and riddled with corruption. Others are plagued by criminal gangs working on the terraces. Some First division grounds would disgrace England’s non-professional leagues.  The Argentine Under-20s failed to qualify for the World Cup recently completed in Egypt. And now the national team coach is threatening to use his private parts as a lethal weapon.

Maradona survives on plenty of passion and the wilting affection of a nation whose memories of him as a player are increasingly hazy.  It might have been enough to get Argentina to South Africa, just.  But it won’t get them very far when the tournament kicks off. And even if did, scrambled last minute goals and wild-eyed rants are not how most Argentines would like to win the World Cup. Suck on that, Diego!

Argentina 2 Peru 1

The domestic programme is taking a break while Argentina suffers the torturous agony of trying to qualify for the 2010 World Cup. The nation breathed a huge sigh of relief on a rain-soaked Saturday night as old war-horse Martín Palermo stabbed home an extra-time winner against bottom side, no-hopers, Peru.

Peru are not exactly San Marino but they’d won only two out of their previous sixteen qualifying games, and neither of those outside of Lima. And the fact that manager, Diego Maradona, had to divert Palermo from the knackers yard to pull on his sky-blue and white shirt illustrated the sorry state that Argentina finds itself in.

Monument to Uruguay's Glory

Monument to Uruguay's Glory

They sit in the fourth and final automatic qualifying spot and victory against Uruguay, in Montevideo, on Wednesday night will guarantee them a trip to South Africa. But victory for Uruguay, who are just a point behind, will do the same for them. And Ecuador, a point behind Uruguay and two behind Argentina, will play already qualified Chile with high hopes of at least clinching the fifth place play-off spot and a couple of games against a very small country from Central America. Put simply, Argentina must win on Wednesday.

But imagine Argentina were England and had to win in Glasgow to qualify. And a victory for Scotland would put them on the plane to South Africa instead. That’s what the game against Uruguay represents, but even more so.

Argentina, with some of the most expensive talent on the planet at their disposal, look like a bunch of Sunday morning sloggers who have got the kick-off time wrong and thought “Sod it, let’s get a few beers in before the game.”

Maradona took over a losing team and led them further down a road of confusion and contradiction. He knows Messi must play but doesn’t know who to play him alongside and has tried pretty much everyone apart from his mum.

Victory over Uruguay is crucial for Argentina but it’s pretty important for Uruguay too. It’s a small country defined to a large degree by its relationship with its dominant, overpowering, sometimes bullying neighbour.  Argentines, on the other hand, rarely even think about Uruguay except when it comes to choosing holiday destinations. And now they have the audacity to block their path to the World Cup!

Uruguay was born in 1828 out of a treaty brokered by the British after a 500-day war between Argentina and Brazil. Because of its liberal politics it became known as ‘The Switzerland of South America’ despite little in the way of mountains, chocolate or cuckoo clocks. It does have a fair few banks though.

It also boasts plenty of fine meat, tango and football – which makes it, to the untrained eye, a lot like Argentina, only smaller and quieter. There are less than four million Uruguayans so your chances of running into one are slim. But if you should, don’t ever compare them to the Argentines. They would find that offensive. Instead, talk about the two World Cups they’ve won.

They won the first World Cup ever in 1930, beating none-other than old rivals Argentina in the final. But the one they’re really proud of is victory in the 1950 final against Brazil in the Maracana stadium. There are monuments to that win erected in Montevideo. Stamps were printed, medals were awarded and books written.

On the Slide

On the Slide

Despite some fine players, like Atlético Madrid goal-machine Diego Forlán, they’re unlikely to win a third World Cup. But they’re good enough to qualify and hold their own. And if they can put Argentina out of the competition along the way there’ll be some hats tossed into the air in the streets of Montevideo. Who knows, they might even keep the bars open for an extra half an hour or so.

The Argentine media is talking about failure to qualify as though it were the end of the world. Argentina, despite its huge promise, rarely figures in those world lists of top ten best this or best that. Except when it comes to football. So to not even make the top thirty or so teams gathering in South Africa, let alone the best four in South America, would be a huge blow to national pride.

Argentina didn’t qualify for the 1970 finals and lived to fight another day. But this time they’ve got Messi, Tévez, Agüero and more. Failure to qualify this time would be a national catastrophe with political and economic implications.

But looking on the bright side, it should, although I doubt it will, force Argentina to look at the dismal state of their national game and begin a much-needed rebuilding. They can’t rely on Palermo poking one in from the middle of a goal-mouth scramble. And I’m not sure Maradona could handle another celebratory belly slide across a rain-sodden pitch like the one he performed on Saturday.