Argentinos Juniors  0  River Plate  0

It’s been a while since anyone saw a 0-0 draw at the humble home of Argentinos Juniors. And with an attack force as flaccid and potent as a week-old stick of celery, it could be a while yet before we see another goal, at least from the home side.

They weren’t bad, Argentinos Juniors, against the team now sitting proudly on top of the Argentine first division. But all the good work from the goalkeeper through the defence and into a creative midfield came to a floppy, indecisive, wishy-washy nothingness in front of goal, which allowed the River Plate keeper, Juan Pablo Carrizo, to admire the rooftops of La Paternal, file his nails and send emails to friends he’d not contacted for a while.

Evenly matched-Even on paper

Evenly matched-Even on paper. Photo: Lucas S

River Plate were not much better, only troubling the home side’s goalkeeper, Nicolás Navarro, on a couple of occasions.

One player, however, did stand out – the visitor’s Number Ten, Ariel Ortega. Every time he touched the ball, large parts of the home crowd shouted: “Boracho – Drunkard.”

I don’t think he was. No-one could execute the kind of subtle passes, deft little flicks and surging runs that he did while in a state of inebriation. But he has been and often.

Ortega, at 36-years-old, is currently in the midst of yet another comeback. River fans, who haven’t seen their team lift any silverware since 2008, are hoping that El Burrito will inspire their underperforming stars like he did in the nineteen-nineties when the Millionaires had to employ a full-time trophy polisher.

Back in February, Ortega failed to turn up for training, again. And again his club, which has shown admirable patience with his alcoholic lapses, shipped him off to a detox clinic.

Ariel Ortega

Ariel Ortega

There’s plenty of alcohol coursing through the veins of Argentine society. Most meals are accompanied by fine and very affordable red wines from their very own Andean mountains. They drink some foul, overly bitter concoction called Fernet. They produce cheap whisky with English names like Old Smuggler, Breeder’s Choice and Cow’s Piss. I made that last one up, in case you were wondering.

And when you ask the waiter in most bars and restaurants what they can off offer you from their ample beer selection, they’ll say: “Quilmes.”

“Quilmes,” you’ll reply. “And what else?”

“Just Quilmes.”

“I’d better make that a Quilmes then.”

It’s not a bad beer. I’m going to try now, and no doubt fail, not to sound sexist. But it’s a lady’s beer. It’s light and wispy and delightfully refreshing on a hot day.  But it’s not a bloke’s beer.

Thankfully, there’s a nascent proper beer brewing community producing some fine ales such as Patagonia, Barba Roja and Otro Mundo. But you have to search for them.

So when we got on the bus to take us to the game and there were five River Plate fans each clutching a sweaty bottle of Quilmes and trying to look threatening, we merely sniggered. They sang, they bashed the side of the bus and they stomped their feet but then they got into a terrible panic when they thought they’d missed their stop.

I’m not sure what Ariel Ortega drinks. But whatever it is, it’s put the brakes on what promised to be a wonderful career. He didn’t do badly, winning national and international titles with River Plate, appearing more than eighty times for Argentina in three World Cups, including one memorable game against Holland when he got sent off for headbutting Edwin van der Sar. He also briefly shone in Italy with Sampdoria and returned to Argentina to win a further championship title with Newell’s Old Boys. But it could and should have been so much better.

An excessive number of nicknames, El Burrito, Orteguita, El Chango, El Jujuyeno, El Bushito, seems to imply that it’s been difficult to get to know the real Ariel Ortega or that he’s not happy with who he is…at least off the pitch.

The pre-match line-up

The pre-match line-up. Photo: Lucas S

He’s from the distant north-western province of Jujuy, on the border with Bolivia, and some have suggested that he’s simply struggled to adjust to the bright lights of Buenos Aires and the overwhelming demands of playing for a club that expects so much.

Whatever the reasons, like George Best, Paul Gascoigne and, of course Diego Maradona, before him, his mercurial talent has been blighted by the booze. Why is it that so often, such excessive gifts on the pitch are accompanied by the need to get wasted off it?

The newspapers only gave Ortega a five out of ten for his performance on Sunday, making Argentinos Juniors’ Juan Mercier the man-of-the-match with eight. My memory of most of this match will fade quicker than the ice-cubes in a whisky and soda left in the sun. But I did get to see just a few flashes of the brilliance of which Ariel Ortega is capable of. I’d like to say: “I’ll drink to that.” But probably best not to.

* So, like I said, that draw leaves River sitting atop the table with ten points from four games and Argentinos Juniors third from bottom with just two after two draws and two defeats. Boca Juniors won their first game, a nervy 2-1 home victory over Velez Sarsfield. Tigre beat Quilmes 3-0 to lift themselves off the bottom spot where they’re replaced by Independiente, who lost 2-1 at home to Arsenal. Racing’s early promise, as it so often does, is already fading with a 1-0 defeat at newly promoted Olimpo. The other big Buenos Aires team, San Lorenzo, moved up to fourth place with a 3-1 win over All Boys.

Velez Sarsfield  2  Argentinos Juniors  0

Look away now if you’re squeamish because this is going to get nasty. I’m going to whinge and moan and bellyache until I’m raw because I’ve got plenty to be angry about.

It’s one thing to lose when you’re playing badly, when your defence is a shambles, when you’re bereft of attacking ideas – like West Ham for instance in their first two games of the English season.

But Argentinos Juniors have been playing quite well. They dominated the first half against Huracan two weeks ago and did much the same away to Velez Sarsfield today. But on both occasions they didn’t made that dominance count and let in goals in the middle of the second half to leave the Red Bugs with just one measly point from a possible nine. This is not championship retaining form by any means. They lost just two games all last season and have already lost two out of three in this one.

The Kirchners - Mr and Mrs.

The Kirchners - Mr and Mrs.

But that’s just for starters. I’ve got plenty more that’s pissing me off. There are whole towns, whole provinces that are connected to Wi Fi. Yet for some reason, I’ve yet to fathom why we’ve had four visits from four different teams of Fibertel technicians, each with a different theory as to why they can’t connect our modest home in the heart of Buenos Aires.

Our signal is too weak, apparently, so we need to be ‘reinstalled.’ That’s what the first team told us. The second fellow who arrived two days later wasn’t qualified to do reinstallations so was about as good to us as a book in the hands of the average footballer.

Then a couple of reinstallation guys came but told us they’d need access to the upstairs flat which they couldn’t have since our neighbours were not home. But we’d firstly need a new modem anyway. The modem chaps came two days later and told us they couldn’t do much until we’d been reinstalled. And we couldn’t be reinstalled until we had a modem.

“What you need to do,” one of them told us in all seriousness, “is to get really angry.” My wife said she’d already gotten about as angry as she could possibly get. “No,” said the technician. “Really, really angry.”

We were about to do that when the news broke that the government had cancelled the operating licence for cable TV company, Cablevision, which allowed their offshoot, Fibertel, to supply internet. Not because they’re no good but because they’re owned by the same people who run the Clarin newspaper group and the government of President Cristina Kirchner and her husband, the ex-president, Nestor Kirchner, don’t like the people from Clarin because they say nasty things about them in their newspapers and magazines.

Last year, they took live TV football coverage away from the same people and decided that the state would broadcast all first division games for free. That was a snide, petty, outrageous thing to do but I didn’t complain since I’ve just watched Argentinos Juniors lose 2-0 away to Velez in the comfort of my own living room at no extra cost to myself and with the added bonus of a cup of tea and a slice of carrot cake.

But the decision to stop Cablevision supplying internet services, while also petty and vindictive, benefits nobody apart from Cablevision’s two major competitors. We’re talking one million customers here who will probably have to change their internet server simply because of the damaged sensitivities of a couple of politicians.

Scintillating Santa Cruz

Scintillating Santa Cruz

There is not even an attempt to justify their decision, to pretend it’s for the general good or something that will somehow improve the way Argentines live their lives.

Another very personal decision that got me going was the appointment of Virginia Maria Garcia as head of the tax office, the AFIP, in the southern province of Santa Cruz. Now I’ve got nothing personal against Virginia Maria Garcia. She may well be very pleasant and excellent at her job.  But her sister is the girlfriend of Maximo Kirchner – Nestor and Cristina’s son.

We all know that nepotism is rife in Latin America, and elsewhere for that matter. But there’s usually some attempt to cover it up, to pretend it’s not happening. Mr and Mrs Kirchner have substantial holdings in Santa Cruz province where Nestor is from and once served as governor. They’ve got houses, hotels and many friends in positions of influence in business and in politics.

There’s a huge conflict of interests here but the appointment has caused hardly a stir. It’s been reported in the media but in a very matter-of-fact, measured, shrug-of-the-shoulders sort of way.

Don’t get me wrong. I generally like living in Argentina and the Kirchners are not nearly as bad as some of their enemies in the media would have us believe. I’ll talk about the positive side to life here another day. But not until Argentinos Juniors start winning the games they deserve to win and we finally get our Wi Fi up and running.

Independiente  1  Argentinos Juniors  1

If you’ve never been to Buenos Aires you possibly have an image of a city that moves to the two-by-four beat of the tango, a metropolis where men in nineteen-thirties suits and slicked-back hair lean on lampposts whistling at attractive women in pencil skirts and fishnet stockings before taking them by the hand and dramatically swinging them to within a millimetre of the ground as a prelude to a jerky, seductive dance.

I have seen that happen here but not often. If you were going to see it, August would be the month with the Buenos Aires Tango Festival in full swing, culminating in the Tango World Cup. The festival is a positive orgy of tango and music at venues across the city. The organisers would have us believe that Buenos Aires moves to the beat of the tango.

Two by Four - Not 4-4-2

Two by Four - Not 4-4-2

But the truth is that you can go days without hearing it and sometimes several long weeks without seeing a woman in stiletto heels and fishnet stockings. This morning my local supermarket was playing, would you believe, Men At Work, my kids and their mates are much more into Franz Ferdinand and Arctic Monkeys than Carlos Gardel and Osvaldo Pugliese and a whole generation of Argentines spurned tango in favour of local rockers,  Charly Garcia and Fito Paez.

The reality is that the city moves to the beat of leather against leather, or whatever light-weight synthetic material they make boots and footballs out of these days. Football is the fibre of the fabric of everyday life.

When there’s football on, and there’s nearly always football on, the caretakers who maintain the blocks of flats where most residents of Buenos Aires, or portenos, live, the security guards in their cabins on nearly every middle-class street corner and pretty much every bar and cafe have their radios or TVs switched on.

The rapid-fire commentary broken only by the occasional elongated ‘goooooooooool’ wafts over the city, mingling with the smell of cooking meat and diesel fumes.

Most macho greetings will mix a reference to a recent game with an un-mistakenly hetero-sexual kiss and a hearty back slap.

Monday’s front pages always carry a big photograph of a River Plate or a Boca Juniors player celebrating a goal. If they both lose or draw 0-0 then you might get Independiente or Racing. Tracksuits, socks, pencil cases, bags, hats, ties and mobile phone cases all carry club insignia.

Forty percent of all Argentines support Boca Juniors. A large chunk of the remaining 60 percent follow River Plate with the remainder spread out among the rest.

The chief cabinet minister, Anibal Fernandez, was recently elected vice-president of newly promoted top division club, Quilmes, raising all sorts of questions about conflict of interests. The government, afterall, negotiates multi-million dollar deals to show all top division games live on TV.

Nestor Kirchner, the former president and now head of UNASUR, which groups South American nations together, always gives visiting dignitaries a shirt from his favourite team, Racing Club.

Riquelme - Reasons to be Cheerful

Riquelme - Reasons to be Cheerful

I’ve yet to see either the Brazilian president, Inacio Lula da Silva, or his Venezuelan counterpart, Hugo Chavez, wear theirs as they address their respective parliaments.

There’s a daily menu of murder and corruption and business deals and great cultural happenings in Argentina, as there is anywhere else in the world. But perhaps the biggest talking point and one of the most read on-line stories in recent weeks was whether or not  Juan Roman Riquelme would sign a new contract for Boca Juniors.  He did. And he got paid several million dollars for the effort. But did he smile? No, of course he didn’t. He’s a great player but I don’t think I’ve seen such a whingeing, miserable personality  in my life.

His perpetual sullenness has done nothing to dampen his popularity, I suspect because many Argentines see something of themselves in him. This is a nation that loves to whinge.

My complaint is that they  complain too much when the truth is, they’ve got it pretty good.

They’ve got great fertile plains, a long and beautiful coastline and dramatic mountains. They produce some of the best wine and beef in the world. They’ve got a cultured and well-educated population, a fascinating capital city, some of the best footballers in the world and tango.

They’ve also got a long tradition of producing self-serving, corrupt politicians who do a fine job of screwing things up. But they provide a useful service by giving their people plenty to complain about.

And talking of complaining: What’s gone wrong with Argentinos Juniors?  Just one point from two games! This was always going to be an anti-climatic season after the unexpected highs of the Clausura.

An obligatory visit to the in-laws out in Chacabuco, about four hours west of Buenos Aires, prevented me from getting to the Independiente stadium for what sounded like a decent game. The reports say the visitors were lucky to come away with a point but did play some decent football in the first half.

Nestor Ortigoza returned only to earn himself a red card and will miss the next game, away to old rivals Velez. Velez are one of five teams with maximum points after the opening two games – the others being Estudiantes, Banfield, Racing and River.

08/08
2010

Argentinos Juniors  1  Huracan  2

Of course, everyone tries just that little harder to beat the champions. And with a lot of new players, Argentinos Juniors were still finding their feet. And their midfield playmaker, Nestor Ortigoza, was missing and the wind blowing in a north-north-easterly direction always has an impact on the way the home-side plays, especially on the seventh of the month when that month begins with the letter ‘A.’

Whatever the reasons, this was painful defeat, especially after all the hope and expectation harvested last season. Yes, there were a lot of changes. But the new manager, Pedro Troglio, had the team playing the same attractive passing game. Argentinos controlled the first half, taking the lead with a well-worked goal from one of the new boys, Gonzalo Vargas, five minutes before the break.

Thanks Champs

Thanks Champs

The crowd liked that and took him to their hearts, immediately giving him a nickname – ‘the Uruguayan’ because he’s, well, from Uruguay.

Everything was running according to plan. There was a big crowd, full of expectation. Someone even spent the close season cutting big letters out of polystyrene, and painting every other one red, to spell out the words: Gracias Campeon.

As I approached the stadium I could smell the newly cut grass mixed with possibly even a tinge of fresh paint. The police hadn’t done much in the way of pre-season training. At the turnstile an officer held us up while he lit a cigarette then leaned on the railing with his belly protruding like a sack of rice hanging on the wall. He kind of half-heartedly raised his free hand and tapped my coat pocket then allowed me through with a barely perceptible nod of his head.

No-one wants to admit that they don’t recognise their own players, but with so many new signings I must confess that I’d scribbled down some notes which I surreptitiously slid in and out of my pocket before announcing boldly to anyone that cared to listen: “He looks useful that Escudero.” Or “Ocampo seems to be settling in nicely.”

Just fourteen seconds after the kickoff I heard my first reference to the referee’s mother’s private parts. In fact, the old guy behind me had obviously been rehearsing his insults during the idle months, abusing the match officials and the away fans with such vigour that at half-time he offered a kind of half-hearted apology to those around him whose eardrums had had to endure his assault. “I’ve had no-one to shout at for two months,” he explained.

And then, in a nightmarish three minutes mid-way through the second half, our dream drooped like a pensioner at an orgy who’s just discovered that he’s mixed his Viagra up with his indigestion tablets.

Firstly, Huracan’s Mariano Martínez blasted the ball home for the equaliser from an almighty bundle in the Argentinos defence. Then, a minute later, Cesar Montiglio put the visitors two-one up after Gustavo Oberman lost the ball in midfield. It couldn’t get much worse. Could it?

There are parts of the Diego Maradona stadium I simply can’t see from where I stand, even with a bit of jigging and jumping about.  Most of the bottom right-hand corner of the pitch, for instance, is obscured by the managers’ dugouts and more metal posts, fencing and barbed wire than you’d find around most prison compounds. So I’m not really sure what happened next. But the result was that another Argentinos Juniors new boy, Gabriel Perez Tarifa, was sent off  just eight minutes after he came on as a substitute in his first ever game for Argentinos Juniors for what the newspapers called ‘excessive abuse.’ Not, I hope, another reference to the referee’s mother’s private parts!

Restricted Vision

Restricted Vision

One of the reasons that Argentinos Juniors became champions was because they made a habit of carving results out of lost causes. Two-nil down away to Lanus in the second game of last season to win six-three. Three-one down at home to Independiente in the penultimate match to clinch a crucial four-three victory, and more.

But not today. There were a couple of chances and the crowd managed to rally a bit of chanting along the lines of “we may be losing this one but we’re still champions, so there!” But it wasn’t going to be.

Argentinos Juniors were fine champions last season. And modest Banfield worthy winners the season before that. But I can’t help feeling that the planets are being realigned to what are generally perceived to be their rightful places.

Boca Juniors and River Plate don’t win everything all the time. But if two or three seasons go by without at least one of them being the dominant team in Argentina then people start to feel a little uneasy, like things are not quite right. As if Sir Alex were not chewing gum or Alan Shearer were saying something interesting. It’s OK but it’s not quite right.

Boca, of course, have poached Argentinos Junior’s championship-winning manager Claudio Borghi, the backroom staff and one of  his best players, Matias Caruzzo. River, who have been dismal for several seasons now, began to show signs of recovery towards the end of the last campaign and have bought wisely during the close season.

When Boca and River fade it’s usually Independiente or San Lorenzo that pick up the slack and Estudiantes, the best Argentine team in recent years, are still strong, their 103-year-old talisman, Juan Sebastian Veron scoring the penalty today in a 1-0 win over Newell’s Old Boys.

The three promoted teams are Quilmes, who yo-yo between the top two divisions, Olimpo from Bahia Blanca way down south and modest, some might say ramshackle, little Buenos Aires outfit, All Boys.  Since football is very much a man’s game in Argentina, I expect their stay in the top flight to be brief.