Argentina  4  South Korea  1

Eight o’clock on a crisp, cold Thursday morning and the kids are all wrapped in their sky blue and white uniforms enthusiastically skipping to school. Why the rush? Why the excitement? Is it double maths with Señor Rodriguez or is Señorita Lopez taking them on a voyage of discovery through twentieth century Argentine literature?

Bollocks is it! At 8.30 sharp in the school hall it’s Argentina versus South Korea in their second Group B game. The education authorities have ruled that any child who does not attend school while Argentina are playing will not be penalised. Dripping with face paint, draped under the Argentine flag and wearing the latest overpriced national team shirts, Argentina’s school children were lined up in front of their big screens for a lesson in footballing magic that they’ll never forget.

The Big Screen

The Big Screen

And all arranged by the schools – the big screen, the supervision, the permission to stay at home – the lot.

With the young ones packed off for a day of learning, I headed downtown to the Plaza San Martin where the Buenos Aires city authorities have erected a huge screen. It was initially to show Argentina’s games but since it’s up anyway they’re showing all the games. So the plaza has become a magnet for stray Americans, Australians, Germans and Dutch to gather when their teams are in action.

The plaza is on the edge of the business district so there were plenty of suited men on the grassy slope for this game. A drunken Russian stood behind me, a posse of city cleaners in front, tossing scraps of newspaper in the air in the way that Argentines do at football matches. I’m not sure they realised in their excitement that it was they who’d be cleaning it all up after the game.

There was blue and white smoke, there was swearing, there was a very tall, broad-shouldered man who stood in front of me just as the match started. It was just like the real thing, the next-best thing to being in South Africa. Perhaps better than South Africa because all I had trespassing on my eardrums were the ramblings of the drunken Russian and not the incessant cacophony of vuvuzelas.

Fly the Flags

Fly the Flags

Most Argentines at the beginning of the tournament were cautiously optimistic about their team’s prospects. With each match, with each Messi run, with each minute that passes without Maradona making a complete boludo of himself and shaming the nation, that cautiousness subsides and the optimism grows.

This is a team still finding its feet, its players still getting to know one another. Gabriel Heinze was the hero in the first match, hat-trick Higuain this time round. It could be Agüero, Di Maria or Tevez in the games to come. And Diego Milito, the man who single-handedly won the Champions League final for Inter Milan, hasn’t yet been allowed to take his tracksuit off.

I still believe that Argentina were the best team in the 2006 World Cup. I believed in them but I’m not sure they believed in themselves and went out to an average German side in the quarter finals.

Diego Maradona is no tactical genius but what he is good at is inspiring his players. He’ll whip them into a frothing frenzy. He’s said that if Argentina lifts the trophy, he’ll run naked around the obelisk in the centre of Buenos Aires and that’s something we all want to see. Don’t we?

With Argentina’s fourth goal and a second victory safely tucked away, the workers drifted away from the plaza and to their offices and factories. Form 7c went to their classroom to find that they did afterall have double maths. Mr Rodriguez, probably of mixed Spanish, Uruguayan and maybe even South Korean descent, wasn’t going to let a mere game of football deprive him of an opportunity to inflict sado-masochistic algebra on his pupils.

The Argentine side has shown to a country that takes its football very seriously — a country that suspends school for the big games for Christ’s sake! — that it’s a team to be taken seriously.

If I were in the Greek team, firstly I’d be very surprised. Secondly I’d have to change my name to Papadopoulos and thirdly, I’d be very scared indeed.

Argentina  1  Nigeria  0

Thank goodness for that! I’m not sure I could have tolerated much more World Cup build-up. The newspapers have been producing World Cup supplements for some time now and long ago ran out of useful things to say. My favourite headline on one of the 24-hour rolling news channels was: “The dulce de leche has arrived.”

For anyone who doesn’t know, dulce de leche is a sticky brown milky caramelly sort of mixture that Argentines smear on cakes, biscuits, ice-cream and possibly even each other. They dip bananas in it. It’s as Argentine as Diego Maradona dancing the tango while he chews on a prime cut of beef.

It’s to Argentines what Vegemite is to Australians or decent tea-bags are to Brits. Even if you don’t indulge that much while you’re at home, it’s a point of national pride to make sure you’re well stocked while you’re living abroad.

So it was big news that the dulce de leche had arrived at the Argentine camp in South Africa. That sizzling headline was only pushed off the top spot when it was announced that Messi would be sharing a room with Veron.

Do any other colleagues, when travelling abroad for work, share hotel rooms? I thought not, unless they work for cash-strapped companies and the Argentine team certainly doesn’t fall into that category.

The thinking is, of course, that Leo Messi is young and Juan Sebastian Veron is a knotty, worldly, experienced sort of fellow. But what’s he going to do? Read Messi bedtime stories? Tuck him in? Make sure he’s up on time and cleans his teeth?

There is almost no shop, bank, estate agent or product in Buenos Aires that doesn’t, in some form or another, display it’s allegiance to the national cause. Sellers of sky-blue and white scarves, flags, hats, masks and general plastic and nylon tat have sprouted on every street corner.

The city council has erected two huge screens in public areas and hoardings for fizzy drinks have built in clocks counting down the days, hours, minutes and seconds to the World Cup. The sale of flat-screen TVs has gone through the roof, boosting an otherwise sluggish economy.

Sky Blue and White

Sky Blue and White

It was dangerous to be on the street ten minutes before the 11am (Argentine time) kick-off  for Argentina’s first game against Nigeria as all battled to be in front of a screen on time. There was anxious and impatient tutting at the supermarket check-outs where we queued with baskets laden with crisps, beer and dulce de leche. Then a mad dash. Ten minutes after the kick-off Argentines, not known for their punctuality, were still dashing … then – silence.

The birds were quiet, the wind blew the brushwood across the empty streets, the bar-room swing door creaked and a couple of lone Canadian tourists scurried nervously back to their hotel, wondering if perhaps the world had ended or the military were about to take over.

Then there was a collective roar that sent the Buenos Aires pigeons fluttering from trees as Gabriel Heinze, on the other side of the world, strayed into the Nigerian box and, unhindered by opposing defenders who were all attending to Mssrs Messi and Tevez, headed the ball into the net.

This was a solid team performance in which Messi played well. In any other context that sentence wouldn’t sound very dramatic. But given how disjointed Argentina’s recent team displays under Maradona have been and how poorly Leo has played for his national side, it really is very significant.

This was a good start against formidable opponents. Some players, most notably Tevez and Veron, didn’t play particularly well but the team did and the less impressive players will play better. With the likes of Gabriel Milito and Sergio Aguero sitting on the subs bench, they’d better. Most Argentines will be quietly content with this performance which, but for an outstanding Nigerian goalkeeper, would have delivered a more convincing scoreline.

The only dark cloud hanging over a promising start for Argentina is the presence in South Africa of a number of barra brava … the hardcore Argentine fans, some of them with criminal records.

More than a Cardboard Cutout...

More than a Cardboard Cutout...

The media here lets us know who they are and what some of them have done. Twelve were turned around and sent home by the South African authorities on their arrival in Johannesburg. Some of them have their trips financed and are given tickets for the games by the Argentine clubs, national football association and political parties. Quite what they get in return is not clear.

Thursday’s game against South Korea kicks off a 8.30am so the schools have installed big screens in the playgrounds and assembly halls so that no child need miss a single moment of the action.  Business deals have been rearranged, weddings postponed and non-life threatening operations rescheduled.

Argentina needs football and it needs victory in football, especially on the world stage, to feel good about itself when so much else is not as it should be. And it’s all so much better in high definition on a flat screen that stretches from wall-to-wall.

Newell’s Old Boys 0 Argentinos Juniors 1

The first victory of the season and a surge up the table. Not much to complain about there, surely? Well, yes there was actually. Firstly, this was a poor game of poor passing, little cohesion and sparse goalmouth action. There was a barely noticeable burst of promise from Newell’s at the end of the first half when they should have, but didn’t, score. And the visitor’s goal came in the second half when Nestor Ortigoza rammed home what had been an indisputable penalty.

Ortigoza is not, has not and never will be part of the exodus of South American players who have been plucked in their prime by foreign clubs. It’s not that he’s a bad player. He was probably the man of the match in this one with, admittedly, not much competition. His problem is that, to be blunt and a little cruel, he looks like me on the pitch. Me or any other forty-something, slightly out of condition, beer swilling, Sunday morning park slogger. That’s why I like him.

Nestor Ortigoza - like me, but much, much better

Nestor Ortigoza - like me, but much, much better

The difference between Ortigoza and me is that, despite being more wildebeest than graceful gazelle, he is a deceptively skilful and sometimes very effective player. And he plays with a passion that the fans love and they love it because, to echo a whinge heard around the world, it’s a passion not often found in the game these days.

We’ve all heard about the mercenary nature of modern football. But in the case of Argentina that moan takes on more resonance with the knowledge that more than one-thousand home-grown players ply their trade abroad. That’s more than one-thousand compared to England’s, let me think for a moment, one. At least Mr D Beckham is the only one I could find on a brief scan of the web.

But replace the word ‘English’ for ‘Argentine’ on your search engine and you’ll travel the world. We all know about Carlos Tevez, worth every penny at Manchester City, Lionel Messi advertising razors at Barcelona and Sergio Aguero providing for Diego Maradona’s grandson at Atletico Madrid. And who would begrudge former Argentinos Juniors player, Julio Arca, whatever wealth and happiness he found at Sunderland and Middlesborough?

But what motivates Julian Eberhardt as he pulls on his Lightning Fayetteville shirt in the US fifth division? Or Carlos Martino who plays for Scorpion in the Nicaraguan league? There are more than sixty Argentines playing in Mexican football. One-hundred and seventy four in Spain and nearly as many in Italy. And then of course there’s Mariano Caporale, Hector Parodi and Mariano Sanchez dazzling the home fans at Ahrahami Chittagong in Bangladesh!

Wherever you roam in the world of football – from the Greek second division to the Panamanian league, from Indonesia to Malta, the Maldives to Andorra – there are Argentine footballers earning a crust.

Good for them and good for world football, I say. But the situation does raise a number of points on the bleak terraces back home. Firstly, what has become of the more than thirteen billion dollars paid over the past ten years to Argentine clubs for this lucrative export? I’m not sure how much Bong da Binh Dong of Vietnam forked out for Diego Morales, perhaps nothing at all.

But little of the money generated by Tevez, Mascherano and Aguero has been ploughed back into the Argentine game. Many of those playing abroad have never even been seen by the home fans. Messi was shipped off to Barcelona aged just thirteen and never pulled on a Newell’s Old Boys first team shirt. The national team goalkeeper, Sergio Romero, played just four games for Racing Club before moving to AZ Alkmaar of Holland.

And what does the constant flow of Argentine players do to the quality of the home league? The truth is that there is no shortage of aspiring, talented youngsters and there’s a fine teaching structure in place to bring them on. But the motivation to continue investing time and money in nurturing this young talent is fast deflating. What’s the point if your promising fourteen year olds all end up in the Greek second division?

It’s a problem that has long been reflected in the rest of Argentina. A good education system churns out keen young citizens. What often awaits them at home is a sometimes corrupt, always bureaucratic country in which you’re rewarded by who you know rather than what you know. The temptation of a more lucrative and comfortable life abroad is often too difficult to resist.

This was one of the few games that my adopted team have to play outside of Buenos Aires. Newell’s Old Boys are one of the two teams in Argentina’s second city, Rosario. The other, you’ve guessed it, is Rosario Central.

It’s a fair old trek for a kick-off at ten past nine on a Friday night so being a fair-weather fan I watched this one in a local bar with my taxi driving mate and fellow Argentinos fan, Pablo.

There was just about enough to celebrate on the night. But we agreed, over our ham and cheese sandwiches, a bleak looking future. That’s been exacerbated by two dismal performances in the past week from the Argentine national team, which leaves their qualification for the 2010 World Cup in some doubt. Perhaps, we pondered over coffee as the barmen mopped the floors around our table, a symptom of the malaise in the domestic game.