Arsenal  1  Argentinos Juniors  0

Where is it all going so horribly wrong? The answer is a simple one – in attack. Argentinos Juniors have scored just twice in five games, which is bad enough. But it’s the scarcity with which they attack the goal which is so worrying.

If it carries on like this, the next few teams on the fixture list might be advised not to bother with goalkeepers.

“Tell you what boys. Stay at home. Spend some quality time with the kids. We won’t be needing you at the weekend. It’s only Argentinos Juniors so we thought we’d play an extra outfield player in a 4-5-2 or a 3-5-3. It’ll give the goalmouth grass a little more time to grow back.  It’s looking a bit sparse.”

It’s not that they’re playing badly. If points were given for artistic merit then the defence and midfield might be sitting pretty in the middle of the table. And it’s not a problem with possession either. The Red Bugs saw more of the ball than a fortune teller.

But when the midfield’s relationship with the front three is like a mountain rescue team trying to find climbers lost in a blizzard, it’s enough to try the faith of even the most ardent fan.

It’s a well worn cliche but football is like a religion for many Argentines. If you plan your weekend well, you can watch all ten Argentine first division football matches back-to-back on tele from Friday right through to Sunday night, padding out the gaps with English, Italian, German and Spanish top flight games.

But what of those poor lost souls who don’t follow the footy? There are some here. They can be satisfied with a rich cultural life, boosted by the recent reopening of the Colon theatre – an acoustic masterpiece which hosts some of the best opera and ballet in the world.

But with the top tickets going for about half the average monthly wage, it’s a pursuit that only feeds the souls of a few and they’re generally not found in the poorer parts of Buenos Aires.

Some there turn to drugs, others to the growing number of evangelical churches. But a much more disturbing phenomenon came to light last weekend.

San La Muerte - you've been warned!

San La Muerte - you've been warned!

After a gun battle, police in the rundown neighbourhood of Rivadavia arrested a 22-year-old student known as Marcelito. They then announced that he was responsible for at least seven murders, all sacrifices to a saint known as San La Muerte, the Saint or Lord of Death.

The murders, until then, had attracted no attention in the Argentine media. The victims were all poor people killed in the shanty town. That’s what goes on there. Killings in the wealthier parts of the city attract substantial media attention, increasing security concerns and the subsequent profits of the many security companies that prey on those with something to lose.

But human sacrifices in the name of a death spirit, now that was news. San La Muerte is said to have a large following in Argentina’s prisons and in the growing shanty towns in and around its major cities. The figure is used to ask for favours, such as to win a fight or protect a harvest but can also be used to request the death of an enemy. It evolved in poor communities in the north of Argentina where characters from traditional indigenous religions merged with elements from Roman Catholicism.

The murders were shocking. But more shocking for many was that it revealed a previously unknown side to Argentine life that most in the sophisticated white, European parts of Buenos Aires where ladies in mink coats take coffee in the Parisian-style cafes of Recoleta know nothing about. And even if they did know about this dark underworld of human sacrifice in the drug-riddled shanties or villas of Buenos Aires, their reaction would only be to tut and perhaps dedicate a little more thought to their security situation. It was news for a day or so. Then it was coffee as normal.

A survey out this week showed that insecurity and growing crime were Argentines’ biggest worries while poverty concerned just 19percent of the population. I imagine that’s because the pollsters didn’t dare take their clipboards into the villas – I certainly wouldn’t – where I suspect they’d have found that poverty was the biggest concern of close to 100percent of poor people.

A Buenos Aires villa miseria...

A Buenos Aires villa miseria...

The point I’m trying to make here is that it’s so easy to forget that this widespread misery is there just a few blocks away from our swanky shopping malls. But we choose not to notice it until some extreme manifestation of this misery, like human sacrifices to San La Muerte, is drawn to our attention, for a day or so at least.

The price we pay for ignoring it is that one day the villas won’t be able to contain the misery and it’ll spill out into the shopping malls and coffee shops of the ‘sophisticated’ parts of Buenos Aires. I at least will have the satisfaction, as they loot and pillage my home and present my still beating heart to San La Muerte, of being able to say: “I told you so.”

But that’s why we watch football – so we don’t have to concern ourselves with all that. Although football is not really producing the distraction from misery that Boca Juniors fans might like. They’re in a similar situation to  Argentinos Juniors but because they’re so much bigger and their expectations so much grander their grief is apparently greater. They lost again, 2-1 at home to San Lorenzo, and the new job of the former Argentinos Juniors boss, Claudio Borghi, is looking precarious. River Plate, who started brightly, are already fading and lost 2-1 to Velez who jointly top the table with Arsenal.  All Boys beat fellow newly-promoted side, Olimpo 1-0 and Newell’s and Independiente fought out a 1-1 draw. Estudiantes, as always, are looking strong with a 2-1 win away to Godoy Cruz and Lanus beat relegation contenders, Gimnasia 2-0.

Argentinos sit two places off the bottom but are really not much worse than the top two teams. Either they’re all nearly as good as one another or nearly as bad.  I’m erring on the positive side and going for the former — for now at least.

Argentinos Juniors  5  Huracan  1

And so ends this journey through an Argentine first division football season.  But my word, what a way to end it! The sun was shining, the Argentinos Juniors fans were in fine voice, Huracan supporters had travelled in numbers and there were goals galore. The home side went ahead after just eight minutes with a debatable penalty slotted home with confidence by the consistently impressive, Nestor Ortigoza. The Bichos were two up by half time thanks to a Juan Mercier strike from the middle of the penalty area. In the second half they passed the ball exquisitely to shouts of ‘Ole’ from the home supporters. Gabriel Hauche notched up a hat-trick.

I shall miss you....

I shall miss you....

It’s long been my ill-researched theory that football in so many ways is a reflexion of real-life – all contained within the confines of the stadium. You experience all the hopes, the anger, the expectation, the exhilaration, the disappointment and the unpleasant smells of life on the outside. Only you do it vicariously, safely, through the actions of the players and the officials and that obnoxious bloke with the huge belly who keeps shouting the same insult at the referee throughout the game.

It therefore follows, in my malt-whisky addled mind, that a league will reflect the characteristics of the country in which it’s played.

The English premiership, with its dodgy club owners, glitzy corporate executive boxes, expensive foreign imports and greasy cuisine, I think sustains my theory.

The Argentine league, like the country itself, should be up there with the big boys, but isn’t. It’s become a seedbed for foreign clubs to come in and exploit. A few clubs thrive but the majority are victims of their owners’ greed and ineptitude, further weakened by their rotten barrabrava, the organised, hardcore fans.

Grounds are decrepit and no-one ever adequately explains where all the transfer money goes, however politely you ask them. But the depth of player talent is awesome, the atmosphere on match-days is never less than interesting and the passion for and knowledge of football is second to none.

The weekend newspapers said that this season’s climax was more exciting than ever. They always say that. For some weeks there had been a two-horse race for the title between Newell’s Old Boys and humble Banfield, with Newell’s going into their final game two points adrift.

Playing at home, they had to beat San Lorenzo and hope that Banfield wouldn’t get a result away to Boca Juniors. Both lost their games 2-0 and Banfield, for the first time in their history, were crowned Argentine champions. Buenos Aires was awash in a sea of green and white.

Huracan - Glowing like a soggy sparkler

Huracan - Glowing like a soggy sparkler

The season was marked by the big clubs, Boca Juniors, River Plate, Racing Club and Independiente, all failing to challenge at the top and all bobbing about in mid-table. An Argentine side, Estudiantes, did win the South American club championship, the Copa Libertadores, and the national team snuck into the World Cup with a less-than impressive fourth automatic qualifying place. But with Dumpy Diego at the helm the journey to South Africa was always going to be a strain on the suspension.

Argentinos Juniors, after finishing in last place last season, could only get better and they did so in style, finally resting in sixth place. For one brief moment, halfway through the season after a win against Estudiantes, the Bichos fans even whispered about perhaps, just maybe, you never know, winning their first silverware in more than twenty years. But then, like a Maradona diet, it all came to nothing, with a rash of draws against teams from the soggy section of the table.

The man I mocked at the beginning of the season, the lumbering awkward Number 5, Nestor Ortigoza, has become my favourite player for his precision, intelligent passing and willingness to battle for every ball. I shall follow him with interest in the Paraguay squad in South Africa.

The little goalscorer, Gabriel Hauche, was also impressive – too impressive, I fear, to linger for long at Argentinos Juniors. I’ll be surprised if he pulls on a Bichos shirt next season. The other man unlikely to be stretching the red and white shirt over his expansive belly is the manager, Claudio Borghi, who I suspect will be plucked from his dugout by one of the vultures from Argentina’s big, underachieving clubs.

There was much less crowd violence this season. And all the matches finished on time, despite a delayed start to the season because of a crisis over television rights and coverage.

Argentina is a bit like that. Things rarely progress as you would like them to. But after false starts and prophesies of doom, gloom and corruption, everything tends to work out alright in the end.

This is the end

This is the end

In the week the season ended, the trial finally began of one of the most hated figures from Argentina’s military dictatorship, Alfredo Astiz, a former naval commander, known as the ‘Blond Angel of Death.’  He operated at the Naval Mechanics School, the biggest and most gruesome detention centre where he’s accused of killing, among others, two French nuns.

He also led an elite squadron during the Falklands War. He surrendered without firing a shot to British troops in South Georgia. It’s taken more than thirty years to bring him and his cohorts to trial. But after sustained pressure from the families of the victims and human rights groups, and some help from the government, it finally happened.

I went to fourteen of the nineteen games this season. There was some fine football, just one 0-0 draw in the rain, a few appalling refereeing decisions and a fair number of chorizo sausages which make me wince to think about them even now.

It was a respectable season for Argentinos Juniors that, with a little more luck and self-belief could have been a much better one. They drew against the eventual champions, Banfield, 1-1 and beat the runners-up, Newell’s Old Boys 1-0 away.

I shall be retiring to my hammock for the summer break but I hope to return early next year, rested and rejuvenated, for another season and a preview of the World Cup from the terraces of the Diego Armando Maradona stadium.