All Boys  0  Argentinos Juniors  0

I didn’t go to this game although I very much wanted to. It’s the nearest thing Argentinos Juniors has to a local derby since All Boys is just 3km or so up the road and it’s a stadium I’ve never been to. But the local authorities, in their wisdom, decided to ban visiting fans. What did we ever do to upset them?

They cited previous unpleasantness for their decision. OK, I’ve seen a few boggled-eyed angry fans kicking walls and smashing their palms against walls but the only damage they generally do is to themselves.

Shout louder! He can't hear you.

Shout louder! He can't hear you.

The Bichos are a motley collection of boisterous youngsters, grandads wallowing in nostalgia, proud mums and dads with toddlers on their shoulders and enthusiastic footie fans like myself. No harm to no-one.

The decision was met with rightful indignation – of Mourinho-like proportions – by the club authorities. They refused to attend the game in protest. “It’s because we’re a small club,” they bleated, which is probably true. The police fancied a day off and wouldn’t have taken the same decision if they were dealing with a Boca Juniors, say, or a River Plate.

I got to see the game in a dark, cavernous sports hall at the Argentinos Juniors complex where the club had erected a big screen. Entrance was free. We clapped and cheered and abused the referee which was an odd sensation since, obviously, they couldn’t hear us.

Yet another draw in a game Argentinos Juniors really should have won simply because they were the better side. But they couldn’t put away their chances and therein lies one of the fundamental truths of football. If you don’t score more goals than your opponents, you don’t win. I’ve often thought that a career in philosophy would have suited me.

There’s no doubt that the whole system is stacked in favour of the big boys. Relegation is decided on the average results over three seasons. So a big club that finds it is sliding down the rankings can generally reorganise itself and buy its way out of trouble.

That is more or less what River Plate are in the process of doing. They’ve had a few, by their standards, dismal seasons and their average was looking about as healthy as Diego Maradona the morning after the night before.

Sitting comfortably.

Sitting comfortably.

The president, Daniel Passarella, brought in a new manager in JJ Lopez, they’ve kept their disruptive barra brava in check and pretty much turned things around. They might not win the title this season but they’ll stay in the top division. Of that, there is no doubt.

As fans, we know it’s not really fair. We know that the game is riddled with vested interests, bags of money and, sometimes, corruption. Jose Mourinho knows what he’s talking about. OK, we’re aware that he’s only whinging to divert attention from his players in their moment of misery.

But mostly, we’d rather not think about it. Those who run football, like those who run most money-spinning sports, simply cannot afford to admit that their administrations are rotten to the core, that drugs are rife, that they’d bend over and pull their trousers down themselves to satisfy the sponsors. They could but they never will since too many vested interests are served.

And where do we, the fans, fit into all this. We’d rather not rock the boat either. We have also invested time, money, emotion, hopes and expectations into our teams, our sport. To come clean with ourselves and admit that we’ve been had, that we continue to be duped, makes us look pretty dumb. We need our sport, our team, our hopes and expectations.

I still vividly remember the 1988 Olympic 100m final between Carl Lewis and Ben Johnson. It was one of the best sub-ten second chunks of sporting history ever, an event that surpassed the hype that had preceded it. Then, a couple of days later, Ben Johnson, who’d won, was tested positive for steroids and his gold medal was taken from him and awarded to second-placed Carl Lewis. Like millions of others, I felt cheated, duped.

I was living in Madrid when it became known that Real Madrid had a debt the size of a small country. But to many, Real Madrid is more important than most small countries and, like a small country, couldn’t be allowed to go out of business. A company that did something meaningless like build housing for the underprivileged, maybe. But Real Madrid? Never!

Spectating - but not as we know it.

Spectating - but not as we know it.

The city authorities conjured up a deal where they bought the club’s training ground for an inflated sum and rented it back to them for a pittance. The local tax payers paid, Atletico Madrid fans included. There should have been a furore but there wasn’t.

Few were surprised when Diego Maradona was sent home from the 1994 World Cup after failing a drugs test. But c’mon! Was he the only one? I don’t think so. He maintains that he was targeted for openly and loudly criticising the footballing authorities, which I think is likely. They need to show that they care every now and then by making an example of someone and who better than the loud-mouthed number 10?

But to put their house in order, to really put their house in order would mean lancing a very big boil and that would hurt. It would hurt the Grondonas and the Blatters, it would hurt the corporate sponsors and it would hurt us, the fans. So they’ll pick the odd scab occasionally. But that’s all they’ll ever do.

A big moan, I know, for a relatively small injustice. But sometimes these things have simply got to be said. Then not said for a long time while we immerse ourselves again in the drama, the controversy, the hype and escapism that is football.

Argentina  3  Mexico  1

It’s now just one step away from official – almost nothing else in Argentina matters now apart from the World Cup quarter-final game against Germany on Saturday July 3rd at 11am Buenos Aires time.

The front-pages of even the serious newspapers are now dedicated to the football, people talk about little else and no plans for the weekend or the days beyond are made without a quick glance at the fixture list that we all carry in our wallets.

The one good thing to come out of England’s dismal defeat to Germany is that I can now put my support firmly behind Argentina. I would of course have been 100% behind John Terry and the boys in the always unlikely event of a quarter-final clash against Argentina. But in the meantime, my loyalties and my frayed emotions were split two ways which made Sunday a very difficult day indeed.

Hung out to dry!

Hung out to dry!

We left  early for Matt’s place in Palermo to watch both games and it meant packing England and Argentina shirts for myself, my wife and the kids. We had to find both the England and Argentina cardboard cutouts from the Tiki Tiki football magazine, read team reports from both camps and prepare ourselves emotionally for possible convincing victories, crushing defeats or mind-numbingly dull draws followed by extra-time and excrutiatingly painful penalties for two games fuelled only by as much beer, cake and hamburger as we could shove down our throats in the short break between matches. I’d also risen early to prepare a German potato salad to show there were no hard feelings for 1914, 1939, 1970, 1996 etc. There’s still plenty left and we’re feeding it to the cat. Or I might wrap it up and send it to the Uruguayan referee’s association.

It ain’t always easy being a football-loving expat in a football-mad country like Argentina. Especially if your first-choice team would have had trouble matching Accrington Stanley in the first round of the FA Cup, never mind a German counter-attack that moved more swiftly and decisively than Ashley Cole’s agent on speed.

The hundreds of thousands of Paraguayans, the tens of thousands of Chileans, the many Uruguayans and the smattering of Brazilians who live in Argentina still have much the same problem that I, thanks to woeful England defending, am now free of.

The weather is pretty nippy so it’s not a bad idea to wear two football shirts here at the moment. But we’re not doing that any more. The England shirts are in the wash then they’ll be placed carefully in the cupboard where they’ll stay until 2014.

Belief is growing in Argentina that they can win this cup. But alongside that belief there is also growing pressure on the team and the danger of complacency setting in.

No other news.

No other news.

Commentators in Buenos Aires and South Africa are saying how relaxed and happy Diego Maradona is these days. Perhaps even normal? But his team is winning. It’s easy to be relaxed when you’re winning. We’re all waiting to see how he performs under pressure and we’re still living with the promise, or was it a threat, that Diego made at the start of the tournament to run naked around the obelisk in the centre of Buenos Aires should Argentina bring the cup home.

I think that’s just something we’re going to have to live with since I’ve not seen a team that seriously looks like challenging Argentina – and the albicelestes haven’t even started playing their best yet! Messi is taking his time getting warmed up but when he does, with those around him already in their stride, I think we’re going to see something special.

The trouble with being surrounded by so much football waffle and gobbledegook is that it’s easy to lose sight of the ball. Someone once said, while the balance of their mind was disturbed, that ‘it’s only a game.’

Not here it’s not, amigo! Not here!

Argentina  4  South Korea  1

Eight o’clock on a crisp, cold Thursday morning and the kids are all wrapped in their sky blue and white uniforms enthusiastically skipping to school. Why the rush? Why the excitement? Is it double maths with Señor Rodriguez or is Señorita Lopez taking them on a voyage of discovery through twentieth century Argentine literature?

Bollocks is it! At 8.30 sharp in the school hall it’s Argentina versus South Korea in their second Group B game. The education authorities have ruled that any child who does not attend school while Argentina are playing will not be penalised. Dripping with face paint, draped under the Argentine flag and wearing the latest overpriced national team shirts, Argentina’s school children were lined up in front of their big screens for a lesson in footballing magic that they’ll never forget.

The Big Screen

The Big Screen

And all arranged by the schools – the big screen, the supervision, the permission to stay at home – the lot.

With the young ones packed off for a day of learning, I headed downtown to the Plaza San Martin where the Buenos Aires city authorities have erected a huge screen. It was initially to show Argentina’s games but since it’s up anyway they’re showing all the games. So the plaza has become a magnet for stray Americans, Australians, Germans and Dutch to gather when their teams are in action.

The plaza is on the edge of the business district so there were plenty of suited men on the grassy slope for this game. A drunken Russian stood behind me, a posse of city cleaners in front, tossing scraps of newspaper in the air in the way that Argentines do at football matches. I’m not sure they realised in their excitement that it was they who’d be cleaning it all up after the game.

There was blue and white smoke, there was swearing, there was a very tall, broad-shouldered man who stood in front of me just as the match started. It was just like the real thing, the next-best thing to being in South Africa. Perhaps better than South Africa because all I had trespassing on my eardrums were the ramblings of the drunken Russian and not the incessant cacophony of vuvuzelas.

Fly the Flags

Fly the Flags

Most Argentines at the beginning of the tournament were cautiously optimistic about their team’s prospects. With each match, with each Messi run, with each minute that passes without Maradona making a complete boludo of himself and shaming the nation, that cautiousness subsides and the optimism grows.

This is a team still finding its feet, its players still getting to know one another. Gabriel Heinze was the hero in the first match, hat-trick Higuain this time round. It could be Agüero, Di Maria or Tevez in the games to come. And Diego Milito, the man who single-handedly won the Champions League final for Inter Milan, hasn’t yet been allowed to take his tracksuit off.

I still believe that Argentina were the best team in the 2006 World Cup. I believed in them but I’m not sure they believed in themselves and went out to an average German side in the quarter finals.

Diego Maradona is no tactical genius but what he is good at is inspiring his players. He’ll whip them into a frothing frenzy. He’s said that if Argentina lifts the trophy, he’ll run naked around the obelisk in the centre of Buenos Aires and that’s something we all want to see. Don’t we?

With Argentina’s fourth goal and a second victory safely tucked away, the workers drifted away from the plaza and to their offices and factories. Form 7c went to their classroom to find that they did afterall have double maths. Mr Rodriguez, probably of mixed Spanish, Uruguayan and maybe even South Korean descent, wasn’t going to let a mere game of football deprive him of an opportunity to inflict sado-masochistic algebra on his pupils.

The Argentine side has shown to a country that takes its football very seriously — a country that suspends school for the big games for Christ’s sake! — that it’s a team to be taken seriously.

If I were in the Greek team, firstly I’d be very surprised. Secondly I’d have to change my name to Papadopoulos and thirdly, I’d be very scared indeed.

Argentina  1  Nigeria  0

Thank goodness for that! I’m not sure I could have tolerated much more World Cup build-up. The newspapers have been producing World Cup supplements for some time now and long ago ran out of useful things to say. My favourite headline on one of the 24-hour rolling news channels was: “The dulce de leche has arrived.”

For anyone who doesn’t know, dulce de leche is a sticky brown milky caramelly sort of mixture that Argentines smear on cakes, biscuits, ice-cream and possibly even each other. They dip bananas in it. It’s as Argentine as Diego Maradona dancing the tango while he chews on a prime cut of beef.

It’s to Argentines what Vegemite is to Australians or decent tea-bags are to Brits. Even if you don’t indulge that much while you’re at home, it’s a point of national pride to make sure you’re well stocked while you’re living abroad.

So it was big news that the dulce de leche had arrived at the Argentine camp in South Africa. That sizzling headline was only pushed off the top spot when it was announced that Messi would be sharing a room with Veron.

Do any other colleagues, when travelling abroad for work, share hotel rooms? I thought not, unless they work for cash-strapped companies and the Argentine team certainly doesn’t fall into that category.

The thinking is, of course, that Leo Messi is young and Juan Sebastian Veron is a knotty, worldly, experienced sort of fellow. But what’s he going to do? Read Messi bedtime stories? Tuck him in? Make sure he’s up on time and cleans his teeth?

There is almost no shop, bank, estate agent or product in Buenos Aires that doesn’t, in some form or another, display it’s allegiance to the national cause. Sellers of sky-blue and white scarves, flags, hats, masks and general plastic and nylon tat have sprouted on every street corner.

The city council has erected two huge screens in public areas and hoardings for fizzy drinks have built in clocks counting down the days, hours, minutes and seconds to the World Cup. The sale of flat-screen TVs has gone through the roof, boosting an otherwise sluggish economy.

Sky Blue and White

Sky Blue and White

It was dangerous to be on the street ten minutes before the 11am (Argentine time) kick-off  for Argentina’s first game against Nigeria as all battled to be in front of a screen on time. There was anxious and impatient tutting at the supermarket check-outs where we queued with baskets laden with crisps, beer and dulce de leche. Then a mad dash. Ten minutes after the kick-off Argentines, not known for their punctuality, were still dashing … then – silence.

The birds were quiet, the wind blew the brushwood across the empty streets, the bar-room swing door creaked and a couple of lone Canadian tourists scurried nervously back to their hotel, wondering if perhaps the world had ended or the military were about to take over.

Then there was a collective roar that sent the Buenos Aires pigeons fluttering from trees as Gabriel Heinze, on the other side of the world, strayed into the Nigerian box and, unhindered by opposing defenders who were all attending to Mssrs Messi and Tevez, headed the ball into the net.

This was a solid team performance in which Messi played well. In any other context that sentence wouldn’t sound very dramatic. But given how disjointed Argentina’s recent team displays under Maradona have been and how poorly Leo has played for his national side, it really is very significant.

This was a good start against formidable opponents. Some players, most notably Tevez and Veron, didn’t play particularly well but the team did and the less impressive players will play better. With the likes of Gabriel Milito and Sergio Aguero sitting on the subs bench, they’d better. Most Argentines will be quietly content with this performance which, but for an outstanding Nigerian goalkeeper, would have delivered a more convincing scoreline.

The only dark cloud hanging over a promising start for Argentina is the presence in South Africa of a number of barra brava … the hardcore Argentine fans, some of them with criminal records.

More than a Cardboard Cutout...

More than a Cardboard Cutout...

The media here lets us know who they are and what some of them have done. Twelve were turned around and sent home by the South African authorities on their arrival in Johannesburg. Some of them have their trips financed and are given tickets for the games by the Argentine clubs, national football association and political parties. Quite what they get in return is not clear.

Thursday’s game against South Korea kicks off a 8.30am so the schools have installed big screens in the playgrounds and assembly halls so that no child need miss a single moment of the action.  Business deals have been rearranged, weddings postponed and non-life threatening operations rescheduled.

Argentina needs football and it needs victory in football, especially on the world stage, to feel good about itself when so much else is not as it should be. And it’s all so much better in high definition on a flat screen that stretches from wall-to-wall.