Godoy Cruz  1  Argentinos Juniors  0

It had to happen sooner or later and Godoy Cruz were always likely contenders to take the unbeaten tag from Argentinos Juniors. They scored in the second minute and played solidly and effectively to hold on to the lead.

Funnily enough, in that parallel universe over the ocean, West Ham’s Robbie Keane also scored in the second minute at home to Aston Villa. A good thing, you might have thought. Not for West Ham, it isn’t. They don’t do very well when they’re ahead and the earlier they take the lead, the more time they have to screw things up.

Last week a 2-0 half-time lead against Manchester United wasn’t enough. This time, Villa equalised before halftime then, always threatening, punched home the winner in injury time. Godoy Cruz showed West Ham how to hold on to an early lead, with solid defending and threatening counter-attacks.

That double dose of footballing misery simply topped off a week of irritation for me.  I’ve spoken before about the dog shit that decorates the pavements of Buenos Aires, ranted and raved about the irresponsible owners who soil this fair city. But never before, being nimble of foot and sharp of eye, had I trodden in the aforementioned offending article. Until this week, that is, when I managed it twice in the space of a couple of days.

The first time I was with company in someone else’s house when the offending smell reached my nostrils. It was a gradual realisation, provoked by the uncomfortable shifting and twitching of those, with sharper olfactory sensibilities, seated near me.  What can you do? Blame the dog owners and make a polite exit. There is no subtle or face-saving way to do it.

Then, a couple of days later, I returned from a run and, in that moment of self-satisfied jubilation at completing the distance without heart failure, I noticed the offending shoe. Autumn is making a hesitant appearance in the southern hemisphere, leaves carpeting the pavements and obscuring the foul, offending brown stuff.

The following day I left my house just as a big, fat Labrador was dumping his load not a tail’s length from my front door. The anger and indignation emanating from my person must have been palpable since that dog’s owner whipped a plastic bag from his pocket and scooped up his dog’s mess in a move as swift and graceful as a Barcelona counter-attack.

Normally you’ll get an Arsene Wenger-style: “I didn’t see it. It might have been my dog, but I’m not sure. I’d like to see the action replay.”

Stress only exists if you allow it the space and provide the conditions for it to prosper. It’s a question of attitude. I don’t need to get angry about the irresponsibility of Buenos Aires dog owners or the time wasted in badly run banks or the senseless lack of courtesy on the roads. That’s what I tell myself and sometimes I listen and sometimes I don’t.

I understand why the banks here, like in much of the rest of the world, have now put their tellers behind bullet-proof glass screens. Crime is on the rise, people are frightened and it’s a big issue in campaigning for October’s elections. But you would have thought it obvious that if you put a teller behind a thick glass screen then they’ll need some way of communicating with customers on the other side of the thick glass screen.

“I’ll call you,” the teller told me, “when the cheque has been authorised.” I waited. That’s what you do in Argentine banks, you wait. I never leave the house without a book in my pocket because you never know where you’ll be waiting or for how long. So Junot Diaz’s collection of short stories, Drown, kept me entertained. I glanced up every now and then and after about fifteen minutes noticed my teller gesticulating wildly, his mouth moving like an exasperated goldfish. I couldn’t hear a thing.

I walked closer to investigate, provoking a ripple of consternation in the queue and a barely discernable twitch from the security guard. “What me?” I mouthed back, also goldfish-style. I always think you should at least try to communicate with the locals in their own tongue.

He couldn’t see me and beckoned forth the next customer. I placed myself in the teller’s line of vision but far enough away from the queue not to incite a riot then jigged up and down on the spot to attract his attention. “Me?” I signalled, when he’d finished with the customer. “Dnngal-Schwogllllr-srish-ogglam,” he said. I took a chance and lurched forward. It was indeed me, my cheque had been authorised and he counted out my cash. I left the bank, laughing. You’ve got to really. Life is short, we’re often told. Mine was one hour and fifteen minutes shorter.

I crossed the road, smiling ironic thanks at motorists who did not smash into me even though I had the light. I sympathised with bus drivers over the new magnetic card machines installed just a few weeks ago that are already pretty much all busted. I shrugged my shoulders in resignation as I noticed that basic foodstuff, like milk, had gone up again and I arrived home delighted that the soles of my shoes were clean and smelling as fragrantly as when I’d left the house.

That’s me, looking on the bright side. But two defeats over the weekend is much harder to cope with. Argentinos Juniors have the crucial Copa Libertadores game against Brazil’s Fluminense this Wednesday which we hope will provide something to cheer about.

Meanwhile, we’ve sunk to ninth place in the league, but still only four points behind the leaders, River Plate. They played out a dull 0-0 away at Gimnasia. Velez couldn’t take advantage, also drawing, 1-1 at Colon. Boca also drew – in a thrilling 3-3 at home to lowly Tigre. San Lorenzo and Lanus were level at 1-1 and Olimpo and Estudiantes at 2-2. Quilmes won their first game of the season – 3-1 against fellow strugglers Newell’s, All Boys beat Huracan 3-1 and Racing thumped their local rivals Independiente 2-0. That’s all folks. Watch where you tread!

Argentinos Juniors  1  Godoy Cruz  2

I’m going to ramble only semi-coherently in relation to this game since it pains me to be direct. The Argentinos Juniors’ front man,  Nicolas Pavlovich is nicknamed El Buitre or the vulture because he’s a ruthless predator who devours any loose ball and callously slots it into the net. But after this game he should perhaps be renamed ‘The Pampered Budgie’ or ‘Mimi the Poodle.’

Hungry for goal

Hungry for goal

A wounded herd of antelope lay invitingly in the Godoy Cruz penalty area, with assorted vegetables available, but instead of sinking their talons into the tender flesh, ‘The Vulture’ and his teammates pondered the menu, inquiring over the vegetarian option. As the home side nibbled on crudities, Godoy Cruz stole into their nests, ate their children and stole their electrical appliances.

By the time Santiago Gentiletti grabbed one back for Argentinos Juniors it was too late. Godoy Cruz had already scored two and were ready to saunter back to the western city of Mendoza, licking the blood off their lips and chuckling heartily to themselves. This modest little team, which Argentinos Juniors thrashed at their own stadium last season, are unbeaten this year and sit proudly as joint leaders with Colon at the top of the Argentine first division.

This was the first time my kids had seen Argentinos Juniors beaten at home and I could see them losing faith. “Be strong,” I said wisely. “Strength in defeat will make you more of an Argentinos Juniors fan and victory, whenever it comes, will taste even sweeter.”

They looked at me admiringly and replied: “Can we have another Coke and a hotdog.” As a West Ham fan I’ve learnt to deal with defeat. I prepare myself for disappointment and am well aware that football, like life, can turn from being 2-0 up with twenty minutes to go into a 3-2 home defeat in the time it takes to drink half a cup of Bovril.

I have an ill-thought out theory that bears no scientific scrutiny whatsoever that the team you support says something about the kind of person you are.  We could, but we don’t, all support Manchester United, Chelsea, Real Madrid and River Plate. Who are those fans who turn out every week to cheer on Rochdale, Stenhousemuir and Platense? What kind of grit do you have in your souls? And is there a Swiss Army knife blade designed to remove it?

I’m fairly likely to forget your name, will certainly not remember your children’s but I will never forget what football team you support. You might be John the chartered accountant but to me, fundamentally, you’ll always be ‘that bloke with a season ticket at QPR who was at the 1967 League Cup final.”

Why oh why oh why!!!?? Half time misery.

Why oh why oh why!!!?? Half time misery.

The team you support and what it says about you is vital in Argentina where football seeps, sometimes unexpectedly, into everyday life. And real life very rarely seeps into the football stadium, which is probably one of the main reasons why the game is so popular here.

Argentina is a wonderful country but it should be so much better. They’re celebrating their bicentenary this year. When they marked the first hundred years in 1910, the future looked so bright. Immigrants were pouring in at a steady rate, attracted by the promise of a brave new world. The recently tamed pampas stretched the length of ten-thousand football pitches. There was land and jobs for all. Their railway network was one of the finest in the world. Grand, new European-style buildings lined the boulevards of Buenos Aires.

But a hundred years and several military coups later, spiced up by countless corrupt governments and millions of squandered pesos, the bicentenary is a little less sparkly.

A taxi ride rarely goes by without the driver bemoaning the state of the country, pining nostalgically for the good old days and grumbling about rising crime, the government, the economy and the schools. Since none of them were around in 1910 I’m not sure what golden age they’re referring to. But they’re not happy and football provides some much needed escapism.

There’re a lot of teams to choose from in Buenos Aires so just pick the one that best suits your personality. Boca Juniors if you’re a working class lad made good or with aspirations to make good or with the desire to flaunt real or imagined working class roots. It’s River Plate, the Millionaires, if you were born affluent, or would like to have been, and want the world to know. Racing Club will do for those who really revel in a good whinge since they constantly disappoint and it has to be your local neighbourhood side if you’re a local neighbourhood sort of person.

No-one is quite so calculated about which club they are seen to support as Argentine politicians. The former president and wannabe racing car driver, Carlos Menem, was an avid River Plate fan. Nestor Kirchner, the last president, husband of the current president and widely thought to be the man behind the throne, is a Racing Club man.  Much was made of the fact that as he went under the knife for a recent operation he asked how his team was doing. His wife and the doctors lied since, as usual, Racing had thrown away a lead and they didn’t want to upset Mr Kirchner in his delicate state.

Racing Club fan

Racing Club fan

The mayor of Buenos Aires, Mauricio Macri, is stinking rich and would look much better in the red and white of River Plate than the blue and gold of Boca Juniors. But it was as president of Boca that he gained national recognition. While he was at the helm, Boca won trophies and balanced their books. Many of the large working population of Buenos Aires thought: “Maybe he’ll run the city as well as he runs the club.” They voted for the kind of man who they’d normally dismiss as just another cocktail sipping, rich man’s son.

As you can probably tell from the tone of this ramble, I’m a little disillusioned with the Red Bugs after two defeats on the trot. It’s Estudiantes away next then Velez at home, two tough games and the team isn’t gelling.

Before all the games this weekend,  there was a minute’s silence for the victims of the Chilean earthquake. Two Argentinos players, the goalkeeper Nicolas Peric and Emilio Hernandez, are Chilean and perhaps, with the uncertainty back home to worry about, they were not fully concentrated on their game. Real life can sometimes, even in Argentina, seep into the football stadium.

Godoy Cruz 2 Argentinos Juniors 4

Crates of Malbec all round please waiter. This victory against Godoy Cruz – the team from the western region of Mendoza in the heart of Argentina’s wine growing country – was vintage. I’d even go so far as to say that it was a performance of vigorous texture and taste, with a touch of rusticity in the palate. Although it could be that, after six glasses, I’m confusing my football with this fine bottle of 2008 Benjamin Nieto Malbec.

Malbec grapes were originally grown in south-eastern France but  in Argentina found more propitious features for their development. They produce wines of pleasant taste, medium body with certain earthy notes and an intense purple colour. You what?! I’ve nicked all this, obviously, from a pretentious wine page but I think it translates as ‘Malbec grapes grow much better on the slopes of the eastern Andes and if you guzzle a bottle or two with a fat, juicy lump of prime Argentine beef it’ll slide down your throat smoother than a ball through David James’ goalkeeping gloves.’

Squeeze these

Squeeze these

Argentine wine now sells huge amounts in the United States and Europe. It’s still cheap, it’s pretty good and the labels are posh enough that if you take a bottle to someone’s house, they might not realise that you’re a tight bugger pleased to get some change out of a fiver.

Argentines have been producing and guzzling wine for some time. But until recently they didn’t sell a great deal abroad, leaving that to the Chileans, their neighbours on the other side of the Andes. However a drastic, even by Argentine standards, economic collapse in 2001-2 and growing expertise, plus plenty of foreign partnerships, led to a boom in overseas sales.

Argentines in general don’t drink that much and most of what they do consume is at mealtimes. The only quality beer that I’ve come across was in the country’s nether regions and is produced by the Argentine equivalent of those round bellied, bushy bearded real-ale men and women you find in big tents at country fairs across the UK.

Occasionally, in Buenos Aires I’ve stumbled across the odd dusty bottle of decent ale on rarely visited supermarket shelves, alongside rusty tins of marinated yak hearts and jars of llama eyeballs in brine. Otherwise there’s Quilmes — the national flag-carrying pale, some would say insipid, Argentine beer now owned, although don’t say it too loudly, by the Brazilians.

I’ve never seen beer drunk at Argentine football matches. It’s certainly not sold inside the grounds. And police were breathalysing the fans outside the last Argentinos Juniors home game I went to.

My wife, Claudia, spent her rebellious teenage years drinking in Buenos Aires milk bars. “Chocolate milkshakes all round, barman. And don’t hold back on the sprinkly stuff!” So when she first visited England and was subjected to the custom of buying drinks in rounds, she stumbled.

“No, I’m fine,” she said when the second round was offered, since she’d barely reached down to the first dimple of her half pint glass. There were walkouts, there were hurrumphs of disgust and the landlord had a quiet word with me. I had a quiet word with her and one small but serious cultural divide was bridged.

One of the joys of living in Argentina is that, if left to look after the children as I was for this game, it’s perfectly within the realms of the law to be an irresponsible parent and watch the game with them in a nearby bar. While my son sipped on his Coke, I ordered a glass of Malbec. I remember at one stage an aroma of mature plum, intense with an elegant yet well-balanced taste. But looking back, I’m not sure whether that applied to the wine or the peanuts.

I suspect the restrained imbibing of alcohol in Argentina is due to the influence of the large number of immigrants from Italy – a nation of moderate drinkers. Despite the best efforts of local television advertisers, the phrases ‘binge drinking’ and ‘this round’s on me’ simply don’t figure in any of the Argentine phrase books that I’ve come across.

But while they may not overdo it on the booze, no-one shovels meat down their throats quite like the Argentines. The average consumption is about 80kg per person per year, which is a quarter of a cow more than your average Texan and pretty much a whole herd more than the average Brit.

I don’t know a home in Argentina that doesn’t have a parrilla or barbeque, even in tenth floor apartment blocks which one way or another will manage to squeeze the grill and chimney into the corner of their balcony.

On Sunday afternoons the waft of grilled meat floats over Buenos Aires from a million fires, in back gardens, patios, balconies, by the roadside and restaurants. And I don’t just mean a few decent cuts of beef. I’m talking intestines, tongue and heart – and that’s just for starters. Then there’s a dazzling array of different cuts of meat. Some talk of the Inuit and their many different words for snow.  The Argentine equivalent is meat cuts – lomo, bife de chorizo, cuadril, vacio, matambre, asado and on and on until you look in the mirror one day and find you’re fatter than Diego Maradona. So much meat doesn’t leave a lot of room for much else. A few chips perhaps? Salads are strictly for show – a touch of green to break up the monotony of all that filthy flesh.

One of the main reasons Argentines eat so much meat is firstly because they’ve got the space to rear the cattle– the vast, fertile grasslands in the centre of the country known as the Pampas. Although, what once looked like endless plains are fast being covered by the easier to grow and far more lucrative genetically modified soya. I find that they’re very difficult to barbeque – they tend to slip through the grill and get lost in the burning charcoal.

Sorry to go all psychiatry, but that’s one of the hazards in a country which has more analysts, therapists and psychiatrists per head of self-absorbed citizen than a New York premier of the latest Woody Allen film. My view is that standing over the open fire with a long fork in their hand helps the men stay in touch with their wild, rural roots.

The gaucho, the Argentine cowboy, tamed the pampas, sleeping under the stars, fighting off the Indians and controlling the livestock. They were armed with just a sharp knife and a set of boleadoras, which look like a couple of sun-dried bull’s testicles tied to a piece of string. They’re flung, often from a great distance, around the legs of stray cows to bring them into line – a kind of an Argentine lasso.

These men were so hard, so duro, that they made John Wayne and Clint Eastwood look like a couple of King’s Road hair stylists. Most modern-day Argentine men now use deodorant, work in an office and listen to their i-pods. But on a Sunday, it’s they, not the women who generally cook the rest of the week, who stand in front of the parrilla with a big cooking implement and a glass of Malbec. They’ll talk about blokey things — the weekend footy fixtures or their cars — as a sub-conscious way of trying to re-establish some kind of link with the last vestiges of that raw, original Argentinianness — their gaucho roots.

Hat-trick Hauche

Hat-trick Hauche

With this amount of wine and a performance like the one Argentinos Juniors put in tonight, I’m in danger of getting carried away. They played the same brand of attacking, passing football they played last week, spraying the ball around the pitch and always providing passing options for one another.

The home team went ahead, against the run of play, just before half-time. But the visitors stuck to their game plan and were rewarded with a hat-trick from Gabriel Hauche and a fourth from last week’s hero, Ismael Sosa. I know I’m slurring my words and repeating myself but this really was a performance of vigorous texture and taste, leaving a touch of rusticity in the palate.