Argentina  3  Mexico  1

It’s now just one step away from official – almost nothing else in Argentina matters now apart from the World Cup quarter-final game against Germany on Saturday July 3rd at 11am Buenos Aires time.

The front-pages of even the serious newspapers are now dedicated to the football, people talk about little else and no plans for the weekend or the days beyond are made without a quick glance at the fixture list that we all carry in our wallets.

The one good thing to come out of England’s dismal defeat to Germany is that I can now put my support firmly behind Argentina. I would of course have been 100% behind John Terry and the boys in the always unlikely event of a quarter-final clash against Argentina. But in the meantime, my loyalties and my frayed emotions were split two ways which made Sunday a very difficult day indeed.

Hung out to dry!

Hung out to dry!

We left  early for Matt’s place in Palermo to watch both games and it meant packing England and Argentina shirts for myself, my wife and the kids. We had to find both the England and Argentina cardboard cutouts from the Tiki Tiki football magazine, read team reports from both camps and prepare ourselves emotionally for possible convincing victories, crushing defeats or mind-numbingly dull draws followed by extra-time and excrutiatingly painful penalties for two games fuelled only by as much beer, cake and hamburger as we could shove down our throats in the short break between matches. I’d also risen early to prepare a German potato salad to show there were no hard feelings for 1914, 1939, 1970, 1996 etc. There’s still plenty left and we’re feeding it to the cat. Or I might wrap it up and send it to the Uruguayan referee’s association.

It ain’t always easy being a football-loving expat in a football-mad country like Argentina. Especially if your first-choice team would have had trouble matching Accrington Stanley in the first round of the FA Cup, never mind a German counter-attack that moved more swiftly and decisively than Ashley Cole’s agent on speed.

The hundreds of thousands of Paraguayans, the tens of thousands of Chileans, the many Uruguayans and the smattering of Brazilians who live in Argentina still have much the same problem that I, thanks to woeful England defending, am now free of.

The weather is pretty nippy so it’s not a bad idea to wear two football shirts here at the moment. But we’re not doing that any more. The England shirts are in the wash then they’ll be placed carefully in the cupboard where they’ll stay until 2014.

Belief is growing in Argentina that they can win this cup. But alongside that belief there is also growing pressure on the team and the danger of complacency setting in.

No other news.

No other news.

Commentators in Buenos Aires and South Africa are saying how relaxed and happy Diego Maradona is these days. Perhaps even normal? But his team is winning. It’s easy to be relaxed when you’re winning. We’re all waiting to see how he performs under pressure and we’re still living with the promise, or was it a threat, that Diego made at the start of the tournament to run naked around the obelisk in the centre of Buenos Aires should Argentina bring the cup home.

I think that’s just something we’re going to have to live with since I’ve not seen a team that seriously looks like challenging Argentina – and the albicelestes haven’t even started playing their best yet! Messi is taking his time getting warmed up but when he does, with those around him already in their stride, I think we’re going to see something special.

The trouble with being surrounded by so much football waffle and gobbledegook is that it’s easy to lose sight of the ball. Someone once said, while the balance of their mind was disturbed, that ‘it’s only a game.’

Not here it’s not, amigo! Not here!

Argentina  2  Greece  0

I called the repair company three weeks ago, as the Argentine winter chill was beginning to bite and well before the World Cup kicked off, to ask them to fix the gas heater in the living room.

Juan Carlos rolled up on his motorbike and spent five hours grunting and swearing before he managed to produce a flame, then he sped off into the night, 300 pesos richer.

I inspected his work and found the control dial in the wrong place and when I tried to relight the heater there was no spark. So the next day I called the office. And the next and the next and the day after that. Every day a polite elderly lady either told me that Juan Carlos was on his way or would call later. He never did.

Everything Must Go.

Everything Must Go.

I kept my cool since it doesn’t pay to lose your temper in these kinds of situations in Argentina. Three weeks later, at ten o’clock on the morning of the Argentina v Greece match, I called again. “He’s on his way,” I was assured. But of course he never showed. When I phoned later that evening I was told that he’d gone home early because of the match.

“But you told me at ten this morning that he was on his way,” I bleated. “The game didn’t kickoff until three-thirty.”

“You’re a foreigner,” she told me, sounding very haughty. “You simply wouldn’t understand.”

“That,” I replied, “is a racist comment.” I was about to go into 1966 and all that when she put the phone down on me.

While my wife and kids watched the match wrapped in blankets, I was downtown. I walked past Plaza San Martin where the big screen has been set up while Uruguay were playing Mexico. The hillside was decorated with Uruguayan flags.

But the rest of Buenos Aires was sky-blue and white. Although it hardly seemed possible, yet more sellers of sky-blue and white hats, horns, flags and shirts have sprouted on Florida, the main pedestrian shopping street. There are even shops now dedicated to the sale of similar but slightly better quality items.

I watched the game in the Richmond – all leather armchairs, oak panels and tea with milk served with proper pots and strainers. It’s more English than Stanley Matthews’ baggy shorts, John Terry’s jock-strap – you get the picture.

It had a big screen and miserable waiters – the kind who pride themselves on memorising the orders in what is a paperless restaurant. We were six and ordered a variety of beverages and cake. I was convinced that our man, with his Hitleresque moustache, would screw up. But no! Teas, coffees and cheesecake all arrived in front of the person they were meant for in time for the kick-off.

This little patch of oak-panelled England in the heart of Buenos Aires very soon became pure Argentine as the ‘albicelestes’ pushed on the Greek goal.

I think they’re getting better with each game, playing like a team and not relying overly on Messi. Two crucial goals have been scored by defenders, Heinze against Nigeria in the first game and the opener against Greece by Martin Demichelis, perhaps confusing his opponents with his Greek surname.

The Richmond - two sugars, please.

The Richmond - two sugars, please.

Of course, Argentina cheered that one but they cheered even louder for the second goal, tapped in off the rebound by Boca Juniors’ Martin Palermo. He’s big, he’s strong, he’s courageous and he plays his club football in Argentina. A goal from Messi would have been nice and it will come. But the day after the game I heard the word ‘Palermo’ everywhere – on the street, on the radio, from the bloke who delivered our soda siphons at 7.15 in the morning. The World Cup is all anyone talks about.

A fine example of how desperate the Argentine media is to fill its special World Cup TV programmes and newspaper supplements was an interview with Juan Sebastian Veron’s mum revealing that while her son was born in Argentina, he was in fact conceived in Greece. Fascinating! Did that little tidbit have a bearing on the game? Was that the reason Diego didn’t play him against Greece?

After the game, I walked back to Retiro train station, up Florida, against the tide of supporters leaving the Plaza San Martin. This was a nation content, a nation smiling. There is plenty of discussion about selection and tactics but one thing is clear. The Argentine people are fully behind their team.  And win, lose or draw, they’ll stay that way. I doubt you’ll hear booing from the terraces or see players swearing into the camera.

The next morning, as I settled down at home for the England v Slovenia game, England shirt on, England team cardboard cut-out on top of the tele, Rooney poster on the wall, blankets and hot coffee at hand, I heard the putter of a motorbike outside. It was Juan Carlos come to fix the heater, finally.

“Who you backing then?” he asked. I could have told him Burkina Faso and he’d have believed me. “African teams not doing too well,” he’d have said. He fixed the heater and rode off before Jermain Defoe had put the ball in the net.  I dare not touch it. I want to stay warm at least until Germany have knocked England out on penalties.

Estudiantes  0  Argentinos Juniors  1

There’s been a full programme of mid-week games which have produced bundles of goals, including the 4-4 draw between Velez Sarsfield and Boca Juniors. And this as the national team finally played the way they should be playing and outclassed Germany on their own soil in an impressive pre-World Cup friendly.

Veron - his eye on the ball.

Veron - his eye on the ball.

The Estudiantes playmaker, Juan Sebastian Veron, was on duty for Argentina while the man that ticks at the heart of Argentinos Juniors, Nestor Ortigoza, was with the Paraguay squad. Yet the two teams still produced a throbbing thriller of a game, Jose Luis Calderon netting the much needed winner for the visitors. And this against the South American champions, no less.

So how do they do it? Quality football, both home and away, simultaneously, at the same time? Well, strength in depth is one reason. The other is that they’re not shagging one another’s wives and girlfriends. And even if they were, it wouldn’t be plastered all over the local media. Sex in Argentina is simply not news and coverage of the John Terry-Wayne Bridge affair has been light since they don’t really get what all the fuss is about.

Sex happens in Argentina and it happens in Argentine football. We know that since Carlos and Mrs Tevez have just had a baby.

In this macho society, it’s still a sign of prowess to sleep with many women, even if you are married. It was long a tradition, for those who could afford it, to keep a second and even a third family. There was the official family then the mistress, with the offspring of that relationship kept in a discreet apartment a respectable distance away. Sometimes the wife knew, sometimes she only found out when the mistress turned up at the husband’s funeral, demanding her share of the spoils.

The other reason I know that sex happens in Argentina is because of the vast number of lingerie shops – probably more per head of population than Viagra bottles in —— —-’s bathroom cabinet. (Insert name of least favourite England footballer here)

But the most appropriate symbol of Argentina’s attitude to sex is the Telo. Unless you’re a beady-eyed journalist like myself, trained in the art of observance, you might not notice the Telos. But they’re there, in every neighbourhood, so discreet, so quiet, so unassuming, that you could walk past one twenty times and not notice it.

If you need sex and you need it now, at any time of the day or night, the Telo is there for you – at the standard, the luxury or the deluxe rate. There is no English translation. Some might call it a Knocking Shop but that would be demeaning. The Telo is not a hotel, despite the sign outside reading Albergue Transitorio or Transitory Accommodation. And it’s certainly not a brothel. They simply provide clean rooms that you rent by the hour to take your lover, boyfriend, girlfriend, husband or wife for uninterrupted, noisy sex. (British readers may pause here to titter as if the condoms were being passed around the sex education class)

Most Argentines will have their first sexual experience, not in the back of a car or at their parents’ house while their mum’s nipped out to buy washing powder, but in a Telo. Probably a cheap one in a neighbourhood some distance away to avoid anyone they knew spotting them going in or coming out. The standard of Telo will rise along with your earnings.

Better than the back seat of a car - surely!

Better than the back seat of a car - surely!

Discretion is everything. The car-park is underground and each parking bay is covered by a curtain. It simply wouldn’t do for your wife to drive in with your next-door neighbour to spot your car and realise that you weren’t really going over the January sales figures with Miss Suarez, your secretary. The receptionist sits behind a smoky one-way glass. Drinks are ordered by telephone and then brought to your room and placed in a double-doored hole in the wall. The rooms, according to how much you want to pay, can be equipped with Jacuzzi, huge bed, mirrored ceilings and more. Use your imagination.

Then there are the themed Telos, on the outskirts of the major cities. The Centurion which is all togas and grapes. The Pharaoh if you walk like an Egyptian. Or The Cave for those into wooden clubs and animal furs. A quick internet check reveals one Telo with rooms for ‘two, three or four people.’ Another offers hydro-massage, gym, sauna and mini-swimming pool. Quite how you’re supposed to find the time and the energy for sex, I’m not sure.

There are condoms on the bedside tables, next to the customer survey forms. And cable television showing all the adult channels. They’ve got all the major sports channels too which is useful if you’ve forgotten the Viagra and find the fun is over earlier than anticipated. But I warn you, Bolton Wanderers versus Hull City as a starter does nothing to set the scene for a session of passionate sex.

Not that I’d know, of course. No-one ever openly admits to using a Telo. Say it’s your birthday and the in-laws are round looking after the kids. “Oh dear! We’re out of cat food,” you tell the mother-in-law. “And there’s a sale of bumper bags but only at the pet shop in Belgrano so we’ll need to take a bus and we’d both better go since it’ll be heavy and it’s quite dangerous there at this time of the day and er…”

You and your wife/girlfriend rush out, deliberately forgetting your mobile phones. No matter how good an actor you are, you’ll return an hour or two later feeling guilty and without the cat food. “Sold out,” you say. “And we’re flushed because there were no buses and we walked back, quickly.”

She knows. And she knows that you know that she knows. But that’s fine.  That’s the story I read, anyway, in a Sunday magazine – by an anonymous writer.

The point being that sex happens in Argentina and it’s no-one’s business but the man and woman, the man and man or the woman and woman or the man, woman and man for that matter, who are involved.

I really don’t care who John Terry has sex with. But if his off-field activities undermine morale in the England camp which in turn affect performances in South Africa, then I think some kind of chemical castration should be considered. Only temporary, you understand. We are the fans, for Christ’s sake, surely we have some rights!